If you are interested in adopting a rabbit(s), we recommend you visit us to discuss your circumstances and ensure you have a thorough knowledge of the level of commitment and work involved in caring for rabbits.
All potential rabbit adopters will have a pre-adoption visit, when we require the whole family to be present. This helps us to ensure the physical living conditions for the rabbit are appropriate, and that all involved in the care are aware of their responsibilities and the work involved.
If a rabbit is to live outdoors, we require them to be rehomed in pairs, and to have a permanent run available to them. There also needs to be adequate provision for providing shelter in winter, ideally in the form of a shed or garage. For a pair the hutch needs to be 6’ long, 3’ tall and 2-3’ from front to back, with a run ideally measuring 6’ x 4’ x 3’ high. Other options such as sheds may be suitable, so please discuss your ideas with us.
If the rabbit is to live indoors we will home them singly, but please bear in mind they are social creatures, and do prefer the company of their own species.
We regularly provide companions for people’s existing rabbits. If you wish to explore this, we will advise on the most suitable partner for your rabbit, you can visit and place a reserve on a rabbit, and provided your rabbit is neutered (males and females) and vaccinated against VHD and myxomatosis, we will supervise their introduction and bonding for you.
If you are considering a rabbit as a pet for your child, please think about this very carefully. The majority of rabbits which come into our care are unwanted children’s pets, where the novelty has worn off after a short period of time and the parents haven’t realised the level of work involved in meeting all the rabbit’s needs. We will home our rabbits as family pets only if we are convinced that the parents are keen to have the rabbit, and happy to do the majority of the work.
All our rabbits are neutered and vaccinated prior to rehoming. We require a minimum (non-refundable) donation of £40 per rabbit. We will call you after the adoption to check on progress, and you are encouraged to contact us if you are experiencing any problems.
Protect your rabbit from two fatal diseases, Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease, with vaccinations from your vet, followed by annual boosters for VHD and 6 monthly boosters for myxomatosis to maintain the protection. This will give the added benefit of an annual health check from the vet.
Consider pet insurance to help cover the cost of veterinary treatment. Advances in veterinary medicine mean rabbits live longer and can be effectively treated for a much wider range of health problems than in the past.
Have your rabbit neutered. In addition to providing health benefits and helping control the population, neutering can reduce unwanted behaviours such as aggression to people and other rabbits. Rabbits reach sexual maturity at an early age, so seek advice from your veterinary surgeon as soon as possible.
Take some time to find out about your rabbit’s nutritional needs. The best diet mimics that of wild rabbits to maintain the rabbit’s teeth in good condition, as these can rapidly become overgrown. Free access to good quality hay combined with a small quantity of good quality dry pelleted food and plenty of leafy greens is an appropriate diet. It is important that any changes to diet are made gradually.
Rabbits are social creatures and benefit hugely from companionship of their own species. The best combination is a male/female pair, both neutered of course. If you have one rabbit to begin with and are looking for a companion, care should be taken during the introductions as rabbits can seriously injure each other. Reputable, experienced rabbit rescue centres will give help and advice on bonding, and ideally supervise initial sessions for you.
Check your rabbit’s claws regularly. Most pet rabbits need their claws clipping on a regular basis. Your vet can do this and should be able to show you how to do it yourself.
Rabbits are prey animals, and generally dislike being picked up and held above ground level. The best way to interact successfully with your rabbit is to spend time with them on the ground, and if you need to pick them up, hold them securely and as close to the ground as possible, e.g. on your lap whilst sitting on the floor.
Cleanliness is crucial! Rabbits should be cleaned out daily, to prevent the risk of maggot infestation, known as fly strike; this spreads rapidly and can kill within hours. Rabbits are generally clean by nature, and the daily clean can often be made easier by placing a litter tray lined with newspaper and hay in the area where the rabbit toilets.
Provide your rabbit with plenty of exercise. A secure run is a good option, and if your garden is secure and there are no poisonous plants you can let the rabbit out to play loose in the garden, but please do not leave them unsupervised at any time. Even if you have never seen a fox in your area, they are likely to be around, and with wheelie bins replacing traditional bins, they have less opportunities to scavenge and are more likely to be on the lookout for an easy snack. Ensure children are supervised when cleaning and feeding rabbits, and that cages are securely closed when they have finished. Outdoor hutches and runs should be fitted with proper bolts rather than the turn catches which are often on hutches when you buy them, and weld mesh should be used for runs and open sections of cages rather than chicken wire, which can be chewed through by rabbits and predators alike.
Consider the siting of outdoor hutches and runs to provide shade in hot weather, and maximum shelter in cold weather. Use extra bedding and cover the hutch when it is cold, and ensure water bottles are kept free from ice.